I normally fall somewhere between a 30-31 waist and tend to go with a 30 in raw denim as it does stretch out. I ended up going with the 31 in the Gustave, as it offered more room in the top block while still tapering down at the leg opening. I am 5'10 170, and really enjoy a tapered denim as my calves are not huge. This is the PERFECT amount of taper. Enough to silhouette the leg nicely, but not so tapered that you cant fit the leg opening over boots or hi tops. As expected the details and construction are amazing, and the 16.75 cone mills are chunky and heavy, but after only a week of wear have softened up nicely while still remaining stiff in all the right places. Really looking forward to a nice long journey with these bad boys.